This is the first in a new series in which we speak to some of the world’s top guitarists and ask them to describe, in detail, the various instruments in their collection. We begin the series by talking to ace axeman Rory Gallagher. Rory isn't a collector in the true sense of the word — he hasn't got a house in the country with wall to wall guitars but he uses a total of five very different instruments on stage.
Rory
Gallagher by Eamonn
Percival
A
personal
guide to guitars in his collection
Thanks
to 'Superfan" for loaning this image from
his eBay auction for this magazine. Look for his other
Rory and various rock auctions on eBay
.
Fender
Stratocaster
“I got it for about
£100
give or take a fiver. It was second-hand. In fact, it was purported to
be the first or second Strat in Ireland. The guy who had it before was
a showband player who ordered a red one like Hank Marvin’s and they
sent
a sunburst one, so he used the one I have now for a while until the red
one arrived and then sold this sunburst one, so that's how I got it. I
think I got it in 1962. That was two years after the guy bought it, so
it must be a ‘60 model. I use the ordinary light-gauge Fender
rock'n'roll
strings —.010, .012, .015 etc. — the standard set.
You've had it re-wired
as well?
Yeah, but the only
change I've made is to the tone control. The bottom one —the one that's
normally used for the tone of the middle pick-up — that's now a master
tone control. I didn't want to change anything on it for years but, two
years ago, I got fed up with clicking on the treble pick-up and not
being
able to adjust the tone. The idea of the Strat, I suppose, is that
you're
able to adjust the tone on the bass and middle pick-ups and play rhythm
on those and then swop over to the treble pick-up and do a solo —like
Buddy
Holly. The other tone control doesn't do anything, so I've just got
master
tone and master volume — it suits me fine.
Any other changes over
the years?
I changed the machine
heads — from the old Klusons to the small Schallers, but I’d like to
change
back now. I don't think they're that much better. The problem is that
the
holes for the string, on the Schaller, is kinda high and it means
you've
got to wind on quite a distance to get a good angle to the nut, for
sustain.
I cant change back very easily ‘though, because I've had bigger holes
drilled
at the top of the guitar. I'm hoping that Schaller or Grover or
somebody
will come up with small machine heads with a lower hole. With the
Klusons,
you could just stick the string in and wind it about twice, and it had
a nice sharp angle. I suppose you get a little bit more a grip on the
string
with the Schallers.
I've got the normal Fender frets on. I never bothered with the wide frets. What else is new? I still keep hunting down the old Fender bridges. They're better than the new ones which are very light and the strings cut through.
You appear to have a
fairly
high action on the Strat.
Yeah, it's not very low.
It's similar to the action on an acoustic guitar. I've always had a
high
action. You bend a string and the pressure's against the finger and you
can bend it up a tone or whatever a lot better. Considering I'm using
light
strings — by “old” standards — it's better. If you hit a real power
chord
and you've got real thin, wispy strings on, you re gonna get a buzzy
nothing.
Even if you're using my strings with a low action, you're not gonna get
a chord with real conviction. I'm still not 100% happy with the gauges
that come out of the packets, but it's as close as I’ll get, probably.
I like the first four — I like the .015 for the 3rd. I’d like the
bottom
end a little heavier, but then you try the Ernie Ball sets and there's
a .009 on top which is too light. It's strange — if I put a .009 on
top,
it's too light and if I put a .011 on top, it's too heavy and I’ll miss
the .010. That's not to say that if I was stuck, I couldn't plough away
on something else. There's another thing —on a Gibson guitar, which is
a 23~1/2” or 24” scale, you'd probably need a .009 on top — if you had
my hands — because the action is a little stiffer with the longer scale
length. Nobody's ever confirmed that, but I think so. I think the
Fender
scale is just right. I think the low action thing was really something
to do with jazz guitar or when we had to play with thick strings,
before
the unwound 3rd came. You couldn't suffer a night with the action I had
nowadays with the old strings.
Changes over the years would include the pick-ups — the treble and bass pick-ups blew within a week of each other, so the middle pick-up is the only original one. The bridges, the frets and the nut have been changed a few times — that's just wear and tear. The tone pots as well, but that's just normal. The basic chassis is the same. For years, I kept thinking I’d change things, but I never did. The tone control thing is the only major change. It's just that I’ll be playing slide on the Tele and go into the treble position and you can adjust it nicely. Quite often, on a Strat, you jump between the middle Position and the treble and the change can be . . . crazy. But, I'm as happy as Larry now. I cant see the point of having tone controls on the bass and middle positions and not on the treble. I asked the guy who did my modifications to have, say, the middle tone pot to control the treble and middle pick-ups and the other one to control the bass, but it couldn't be done without a whole new “carry-on” inside.
You use the
“in-between
“positions quite a lot. Have you thought of having the selector switch
re-wired?
I use those positions
quite a lot. It's a bit clumsy to have two extra switches added like a
lot of people do. But, in the States, you can get a toggle switch with
five positions instead of the three. The nice thing about it is that
the
bass position is no problem — it hits the plastic at the end — and the
next little groove isn't as evident as the middle position but it does
sit in nicely. I didn't bother to get one of those fitted because mine
just sticks nicely in those positions anyway because of the wear and
tear.
You can always bend the thing to that position anyway. It's a great
Sound
‘though. It's the original funky soul sound. Buddy Guy lives with that
tone. It's great clean or even with distortion. I like to, halfway
through
a solo, go from one pick-up to one of those positions. That
out-of-phase
sound, which is technically not out-of-phase, is really good for rhythm
— it's a nice jingly-jangly sound.
Oh, yeah, another thing I haven't done is to put another stud on the top near the machine heads. On the newer Fenders, they've got an extra stay there and that's basically to get a nice angle on the nut. I like that 3rd string really open up there because I do a trick with it where you pick a note or hit a harmonic and bend the string behind the nut. It's better than using a tremolo arm — it's more of an eerie sound
Why did you dispense
with
the tremolo arm?
Well, I did have one
when I got the Strat but it broke off with rust one day. I used to use
it in the showbands in Ireland — if we were doing something like “Walk
Don't Run” by the Ventures or something. I used to see pictures of
Buddy
Holly and he didn't use it, so I used to take it off. In those days, of
course, everyone used to leave all the springs on the back so the
action
was . . - you'd only get a semi-tone of a drop, or maybe a tone at the
best. But by and large. it's still the best tremolo arm. It's better
than
the Bigsby. But now, you see fellas using only two or three springs so
you can take it right down. I had the arm but I found I wasn't using
it.
Give or take a few songs. Like in those days you might be doing Buddy
Holly's
“Heartbeat” and there's a nice little quiver in the solo on that but in
the main, I wasn't using it much. It also started getting a bit loose
and
clattery. I had to stick bits of paper down with it. A lot of blues
guys
like Otis Rush and Buddy Guy and Earl Hooker used to use them. It
seems,
from the Beatles and the Stones era until recently, it was the thing
not
to use. But it's quite a decent effect.
I was thinking for a while of getting another tremolo arm put back on, but getting it so you could only bend the 2nd or 3rd string a Ia Clarence White. The way I was gonna do that was to design some kind of second bridge and have one or two strings overlapping it. Maybe the 2nd and 3rd. Then, only those would be affected by the operation. Not only that, but you could bend a string down as well as up. With the usual string benders, you can only take the string up. Carl Perkins used to have a trick like that and I remember one or two showband guys used to use a six-inch nail. They used to take a nail to a foundry and have it twisted and bent and it used to go into the guitar up near the nut, and curl in behind the 3rd string. The only thing with that was you would have to be playing way down near the nut to be able to use it. If you look at some of the early Carl Perkins pictures, you'll see a little wire thing coming out.
Fender
Telecaster
In fact. I've got two
Teles. The one I use mainly is the black one with the maple neck. It
used
to be cream coloured. The other one is a sort of whitey-cream one with
a rosewood neck which I've left straight, with the two normal pick-ups.
I used that for ages, but then I got this one — the black one — which
is
an Esquire. A guy rung up and said he had a ‘53 Esquire and was I
interested?
I had a look at it and it was real hooky-looking. It was great — all
dirty
and all that. So I cleaned it up and painted it black. That had the
standard
pick-up procedure which was fine but I got fed up with playing slide
mainly
on that rhythm position, which is a bit thin. It's a fine country and
western
or soul sound but then you'd go into the middle position and it's a
sound
I detest. It's two pick-ups on together — on most guitars it's too
artificial
sounding, which is why I love the middle pick-up on the Strat.
The treble position is fantastic ‘cos it's really twangy but it's sometimes a little too strong for slide, so I stuck a Strat pick-up on the neck position and that was great. But still the middle position sounded a bit James Brown tone, which is fine for James Brown so I said, “Here we go” and I stuck another Strat pick-up in the middle and then I changed the toggle switch so it's now a Tele with the features of a Strat which is great. I've got all five positions, but the out-of-phase between the Tele treble and the middle position is really righteous. Lowell George, for instance, he's got a Tele pick-up on his Strat in the treble position, so I've got something like that. Oddly enough, the Tele body gives the Strat pick-ups a more hard-nosed sound, so you don't automatically get the Strat sound. The maple neck has a lovely feel to it as well.
Do you use a heavier
gauge
string for slide?
Well, I use a mixture
of Fender Rock’n’ Rolls. The first is a .013. the second is a .015, and
I used to buy wound .020 strings for the 3rd, but I found it was best
to
stick to unwounds for tuning and so I use an .018 for a 3rd. Then the
4th
is a standard 4th, as is the 5th and 6th. I’d put heavier on if I was
tuning
down, but I generally tune the Tele to A or E and use a capo. Whereas,
if I was playing in D, like Ry Cooder does a lot, I use acoustic. D is
a bit low on electric sometimes. I could always get another guitar and
have it tuned down, whereupon you would need heavier strings.
The Tele still has the Klusons and the bridge all the same. The treble pick-up has changed because the other one blew, but I was lucky enough to get an old one to replace it. A guy had a ‘56 Tele pick-up which I'm inclined to believe now —it's a really hot pick-up. I had it dipped in petroleum wax to stop the feedback but I don't have to do that with the Strat pick-ups because they seem to be OK. So, it's grown from an Esquire to a Tele to a Tele-Strat
Martin
D35
I got the Martin in 1969,
second-hand. A guy traded it in for a banjo or something and he claimed
he picked it off the line at the Martin factory in Nazareth —whether
that
was a sales pitch or not, I don't know, but it's a good Martin. It's
not
outrageous, but it's getting better. I had to get the whole bridge
re-made
because the intonation was bad when I bought it — other than that it's
fine. I use Earthwood bronze medium gauge strings which are great — as
opposed to the mandolin strings which snap like mad — and I have an
lbanez
bug on the bridge. I've tried it in other positions but it seems to be
best on the bridge. That goes into a Barcus Berry pre amp — a standard
one — I've tried the Mk. II with the tone and boost on, and I’ll
probably
get one of those. I like the lbanez just as much as the Barcus Berry,
but
the one advantage of the Barcus Berry is there's a guy in Belgium who
has
a Barcus Berry on his Gibson but he's got it underneath the soundhole,
right under the bridge. It's screwed in so it's literally moulded into
the bridge. The pressure of the screw is probably better than glue. The
best thing about it is that you cant see it and you can also run a lead
in and fix in a jack socket. Oddly enough, if you remember Lonnie
Donegan
years ago, he used to actually plug his guitar in and that was a
Martin,
so he must have had a De Armond or a microphone built in or something
like
that, and that was before any of us were doing these things! Maybe he
had
some kind of violin contact mike or something. My only crib with the
D-35
is that the neck is a bit round as opposed to the V-shape like the
D-28,
but it does have a lot of bottom response I've heard better Martins but
I've heard a lot worse.
Do you straightforward
tuning on the Martin?
Yeah, mostly. Unless
I'm playing bottle-neck, in which case it goes down to D. On record, I
use all kinds of oddities. The only current odd tuning I use is on
“Western
Plain”, a Leadbelly tune which is DADGAG. It's a D-tuning, but the G
string
stays at C instead of going down to F sharp. Bert Jansch uses it a lot
too. You get your major by hitting the second fret, 3rd string. It's
really
a beautiful tuning and it's a little more adventurous than the straight
D tuning. Another tuning I use is the Skip James tuning which is E
minor
or D minor, depending. The thing is, you have to open up that extra
cavity
in the brain to remember to keep the finger on the major or the minor,
but you end up with some beautiful chords.
Davey Graham invented a tuning recently and I saw him using it. He puts the B string to A and the G string to E. It's not a major tuning but he can play in three different keys then. He can use the E root bottom, the A root bottom or the D root bottom. The fingerwork is very difficult but you can get some really nice things from it. The problem with these tunings is that, for instance, if you're in - an A tuning, it's nice to do a song in B, so you're barring up at the 7th fret. That works really well — I used that on a song called “Stomping Ground” on the live album.
Are you happy with the
medium gauge strings on the Martin?
I like them because the
numbers I play need the mediums. I’d like to have lighter strings on
for
Broonzy-style guitar — for the more bending type of thing, but I've got
an old Bjarton guitar and it's beautiful. It's a very small guitar like
the small Martins. Blind Blake used to use one — it's like a ragtime
guitar.
The neck joins the body at the 12th fret. I got that in a pawn shop in
Denmark in about ‘67 for about £4. I've been playing that a lot
lately,
and that's got the light strings —being a small scale guitar, the light
strings don't buzz or anything — it's just right. I used it on the
first
Taste album and I used to use it on stage. In fact, I was thinking of
pulling
it out one night and sticking an lbanez or something on it. I was
looking
at an ad the other day, and I saw that De Armond were bringing out a
new
transducer so I might try that —they, up until recently, used to be the
real kings of the acoustic pick-up. The trouble with De Armonds was
that
they either sounded like a cheap electric guitar or a cello guitar — it
wasn't a natural acoustic sound. Mind you, people used to like that
sound
— Lightning Hopkins and Brownie McGhee used to use that pick-up for
years.
Martin
Mandolin
That was another lucky
find. It's an OM model — the orchestra model. Stefan Grossman had the
guitar
version and it's a gorgeous-looking instrument. It's a small folk-size
mandolin but it joins at the 14th fret. It's got a mahogany finish and
I have an lbanez pick-up underneath the strings between the soundhole
and
the bridge. It works best there for me. It's got an extra pickguard on
top because I was wearing it away too quickly. I was putting Gaffa tape
on and it was getting a bit rough and ready looking. I just use
standard
mandolin strings.
When did you first
start
playing mandolin?
I got the mandolin
sometime
in late 1970, just before Taste broke up. I got a mandolin from
Clifford
Essex and it was a beautiful round body thing. I started working on
that
then, but I didn't play it until I started in ‘71 with this band.
Unfortunately.
I took it to the States on tour and the heat made the glue come apart
and
the neck folded up. It probably could be repaired. It's laziness or
lack
of time or something that I never got it repaired, but I liked the
sound
of it. It had a nice deep body and extra volume. Then I got another in
this shop down in Victoria, it's a very unusual looking mandolin. It
had
an intricate design around the soundhole — like a kind of cover which I
took off and it's like a cross between a round body and a Martin, and I
had that done up and used it for a while. I still have it but it got a
bit buzzy but it's not too bad.
I moved from that to
electric
mandola. Chris Eccleshall made me an acoustic mandola and I used to
play
that with a pick-up. I've been thinking of using that again recently. I
had the top string tuned to A for a while and then to B but then we
used
to do some numbers a bit deeper and it used to sound like a cross
between
a 12-string and a mandolin. I haven't used
the acoustic mandola
at all yet, apart from at home, but it's a nice round feel to it. When
I got the Martin mandolin. I dropped the mandola, at least for a while.
The difference in sound between the electric mandola and acoustic
mandolin
is fairly extreme for what we were doing. I've been writing some songs
on the mandola now so I might be using it in the future.
National
I got it from a guy in
the States. You get these traveling guitar salesman going round there.
I got it for a very reasonable price — about £100 or something. I
feel it sounds better than the steel-fronted model. The only
disadvantage
is that the Dobros and the Nationals with the two or three resonators
join
at the 14th fret and mine joins at the 12th, but it's something that
you
can live with. It's got more of a banjo sound and it's got the old
classical
machine heads. It had the old wooden bridge so I had that changed to an
ivory or some other kind of bridge by Chris Eccleshall. The resonator
caved
in, believe it or not, so I had that beaten out again. I've got another
one on order just in case, but it's the old problem — of wanting to
play
slide whereupon you need heavy strings and then you get the urge to
play
something different and you want to use lighter strings. But I never
worry
because it's very rarely that you find a number when you want to play
that
bendy. The National is really good ‘though, even for a beginner to pick
it up and play it, it almost plays you.
That's just miked up
straight?
Yeah, I tried an Ibanez
and all sorts of things but the trouble is you just pick up the sound
of
the neck vibrating on the body, which is defeating the object. I can
tell
you, it brings power to your hands, you move from that neck to the
Strat
and it's like running your hand across a jelly.
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